The Six Esses
How to Taste Wine and Look Like You Know What You’re Doing
Did you know…?
There is a ritual for tasting wine! Below is a guide to navigating the tasting ritual that should enable anyone to taste wine like a pro.
The Wine List
Many folks are intimidated by wine lists. When they finally get over the angst of making their selection the server arrives and presents them with a bottle, label side up of course, and they now have to go through the tasting ritual.
The “Zeroth” Esses: Select (and Substantiate).
After consultation with your guests, your server and perhaps the Sommelier, select a bottle from the wine list. Remember to verify that the bottle you get is the bottle you (think you) ordered! Don’t be afraid to ask for help from the Sommelier. They’ve probably had extensive training and can help you to select the appropriate wine to suit your meal and your palate.
To illustrate the importance of these "Zeroth” Esses, allow me to digress for a moment..
Many years ago, my wife and I were in an upscale NYC restaurant. We were about to enjoy a multi-course tasting menu and I thought it would be nice to start the dinner with a crémant. I selected a bottle and the server brought it over. I took a cursory look and nodded my approval. It was only when he began to pour the wine that I noticed the word Champagne proudly displayed on the foil of the bottle. Turns out that the name of the Champagne producer was similar to that of the crémant producer, but not quite the same. It was a costly mistake on my part but at least we got to enjoy a very nice Champagne.
I’ll not get deeply into the distinction between Champagne and crémant here and now – it will be a topic down the road. But suffice to say that crémant refers to sparkling wines that are made in the traditional manner from grapes not grown in the Champagne region of France. Often they are made by the same or similar processes, but the grapes can vary and the terroir is … well it’s not Champagne.
So remember, select and substantiate.
Now back to our ritual…
The First Ess: See.
Tilt the glass away from you and take a good look at the wine. It’s best to use a white tablecloth or piece of paper as a backdrop.
First let’s look at color.
What color is the wine? Is it Red or Rosé or White? Is the color of the wine constant across the surface or is there a ring around the edge? A red wine may have an orange ring around the edge, which is an indicator of age caused by oxidation.
Oxidation causes red wines to lighten toward orange and white wines to darken towards brown. If the color is not as expected, ask your server or Sommelier to confirm that the wine has not oxidized to the point where it is no longer drinkable.
Next note the clarity of the wine.
Is it clear or cloudy? A wine can be cloudy because the winemaker chose not to filter the wine. Cloudiness can also be a sign of a fault. If the wine is cloudy, and off-color or has unpleasant aromas, check with the Sommelier to ensure that the wine is not faulty.
Finally, note the intensity of the color.
Can you see the stem of the wine glass through the surface of the wine? A deeper color usually indicates a fuller-bodied wine, which will have a heavier mouthfeel, whereas the color of a lighter-bodied wine will appear less intense. For an example, compare the intensity in color of a Shiraz with that of a Pinot Noir.
The Third Ess: Sniff.
(Umm, you skipped the second Ess!)
We will do the third Ess twice because wine smells different when you sniff before and then again after the second Ess (i.e. Swirl). This effect is more pronounced with white wines. Stick your nose all the way in the glass and take a deep inhale.
What do you smell? The notes may be very subtle because you haven’t yet swirled. The first sniff should allow you to determine whether the is wine defective. Does it smell like mold, vinegar or syrup? If so, confirm the fault with the server or Sommelier.
Did you know? “Corked” wine occurs in about 5% of bottles sealed with natural cork.
Now Back to
The Second Ess: Swirl.
Hold the glass by the stem or by the base (if on a table) and give the glass a good swirl.
Swirling increases the amount of wine in contact with the air and releases more aroma compounds. In a typical wine glass, this should concentrate the aromas at the top of the glass
Assess the “legs”, which can give you a hint as to the body of the wine as well as its alcohol level. Slower legs may indicate a more viscous wine (i.e. fuller body). More legs indicate that the wine has a higher alcohol content.
Expert Tip: Remember not to overdo your swirl, because it’s pretty embarrassing to have your Chateau Lafite wind up on your lap!
The Third Ess: Sniff.
(For real this time!)
Raise the glass to your nose. Tilt your head to one side and really get your nose in there. Take a few deep sniffs. Really go for it!
Did you notice a difference from the first pre-swirl sniff? The aromas should be more apparent.
What do you smell? Depending upon the wine you will note different characteristics:
White wines may include aromas of flowers such as lavender, lilac or rose. There may also be fruit aromas such as citrus, green apple, pear or apricot. Oaked white wines may have aromas of vanilla or toasted coconut.
Red wines may include aromas of flowers, fruits, chocolate, licorice, tobacco, oak, herbs, spices, and leather, among others.
Rosé wines may contain aromas of red fruits such as strawberries, watermelon, or candied fruits.
Be sure to note the intensity of the different aromas. As you move your nose around the glass you can note the nuances of the aromas and how they blend together.
The Fourth Ess: Sip.
Take a sip. Go on… don’t be afraid.
Be sure to hold the wine in your mouth and let the wine touch all parts of your tongue. Don’t swallow quite yet.
What do you taste?
Sweetness. How sweet is it? Sweetness comes from residual sugar in the wine. Wines can range from bone dry to sweet and there are many gradations. Red wines (other than dessert wines) are typically made in a dry style.
Acidity. The level of acid in wines varies depending upon the style and grape. Higher acidity produces a crispness or refreshing characteristic, and is usually noted around the gums and tongue.
Expert Tip: Please don’t use a straw!
The Fifth Ess: Swish.
(My wife hates this part!)
Swish the wine around in your mouth like your favorite mouthwash (now there’s an oxymoron!). Let the wine touch all parts of your mouth and be sure to make a good slurping noise.
We first learned this “technique” in Burgundy many years ago and it may seem gauche or a bit pretentious here in the US, but just go with it.
The swish warms the wine, which lets the aromas expand and reach the nose from the throat.
Assess the “Mouthfeel”. How does the wine feel in the mouth? Is it thick or thin? Full-bodied? Medium or Light?
Did you know? Most of what you “taste” is actually smelled! The tongue can detect 6 different tastes, whereas over 10000 distinct aromas can be differentiated in the nose.
The Sixth Ess: Savor!
Now swallow. Pay attention to how the wine feels as it goes down the back of the throat.
Notice how long the flavors of the wine linger.
Some wines linger for seconds whereas the best wines can hang on for several minutes. This is known as the “finish”
The finish can be drying as is the case with red wines that are high in tannins. This is usually felt as a somewhat bitter or astringent feeling on the teeth, gums and palate. Tannins come from oak, skins and stems. They give a wine structure and help its aging potential.
Some wines produce a juicy or spicy finish. This typically results from the level and type of acid that is in a wine. White wines with high acid levels might have a tart finish.
As you swallow, assess the alcohol burn. A deeper and more persistent the burn indicates a higher alcohol level.
Bonus Ess: Share.
I’m sure that I am not the first to say that “wine is for sharing”. This is a common sentiment among wine drinkers. Over the years, my wife and I have met many people around the world and developed lasting friendships over a glass (or two) of wine.
Whether you’re an expert or a novice or simply someone who enjoys the taste of wine but doesn’t know why (and maybe doesn’t care), please share your wine and enjoy the experiences that drinking this amazing beverage will create for you.
Cheers!
Alan